(The following is not written by me)
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Sulu Stories
Whilst in the Philippines I was constantly asked, “Where are you from?” “I am from Sabah” I would answer. “Ah, a Filipina,” was the common response. I smile but am thinking difficult surf, troubled waters, dive in the deep end, not drowning, waving…but I am welcomed with a knowing embrace; we know we are connected; our histories, fate and horizon line is shared. A Sabahan in the Philippines has no option but to address Sulu, I just wasn’t sure where to begin.
[...]
The Sulu Sea, powered by the pull of the moon, filled with her tears, becomes my vessel on which to suture the dioramas I had found. It is a haunted sea, barred to the world for over thirty years by the currents of politics and prejudice and guarded by the ancient Tausug ‘people of the current’ and Bajau ‘sea people’ that turn to pray to the horizon of Mecca. The sea is their life, land a graveyard. The sea for a millenia brought with it empires, traders from every corner of the world and yet the peoples of the Sulu ride the currents and hold their frontiers. The sea is the constant backdrop to the hundreds of stories I encountered, the subjects tantalizing: pirates, slaves, opium, M16s, priests, tau taus, typhoons, shipwrecks, boogey men and sultans.
I stand on the Malaysian Pulau Selingan off the coast of Sandakan in Sabah. I see two islands in front of me. On the left is Pulau Bakkungan, Philippines, on my right is Pulau Bakkungan Kecil, Malaysia. The three islands form a triangle; I am told we are all about 4 kilometres apart. Somewhere between us is a watery formless border but I neither see it nor sense it. We are in a zone not quite Filipino, not quite Malaysian but very aware of being Sulu. At night I see a giant green back turtle lay her eggs. The guide tells me she has not been previously tagged; she is probably laying her first batch of eggs. He goes on to tell me turtles return to their place of birth when it is time for them to give birth. He estimates this mother to be about thirty years old. I think to myself, here is the communion of landscape and memory, as I help release day old green back turtle hatchlings into the Sulu Sea carrying with them the genetic memory of their being and place.
– Yee, I-Lann. ArtconneXions: SYD-MAL-KUL. Goethe Institute. 2005
Cat’s note:
It’s easy to automatically assume that being Malaysian equals to being Valley-ite. Whenever I return to Kuching, the visit becomes a reminder of how it is not. I feel that in the attempt to write and deal with Malaysianness, writers forget that there are other versions of Malaysianness, formed by geographies and histories that are more true and more immediate than the policies of power-hungry men far away.